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There was also a coarser, whiter straw called chip straw, used for little racy-looking hats.

Once I went to an auction in a little suburb near Syracuse and saw two beautiful Civil War-era hats. But the most popular material might have been straw, particularly very fine leghorn straw for bonnets.It can be difficult to determine a date based on the clothing of farmers in an historic image.Their clothing was functional, not fashionable, and changed little over the years.I took it right down to grandma and asked her about it.She said, “That’s the dress your great aunt wore when Lincoln’s funeral train came through Syracuse.” So I called up the local Syracuse paper, and they confirmed that Lincoln’s funeral train had indeed stopped in town, and stayed for about 15 minutes.

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